Hawaii - 18th June 2011

Position: Radio Bay- Waimea- (Hilo, Hawaii)

Talofa Lava to Aiga, Friends and Everyone who have been devotedly following our voyage. We’d like to formally apologise to the lateness in our updates, it’s been quite an event while in Hilo and we’ve been having slight technical logistic challenges in getting this off to you. Enough with the excuses and on with what had happened today.

It was an early day as the fleet was treated with a tour and ceremony today hosted by the Makali’i family (Na Kalai Wa`a Moku o Hawai`i). Makali’i for those who are not aware is a double hull voyaging canoe which is based in Hawaii and has similar missions and goals as Gaualofa. We had three buses for our tour and everyone started loading up, as we had a strict schedule to stick to according to our Makali’i family. Our first stop was in Waimea, for a scenic tour of the two valleys by the Pacific Ocean, it was also a much needed bathroom break for the crews as the drive there from Hilo was about 1 and a half.!

The tour continued onto Puukohola Heiau National Historic Site in Kawaihae. The Heiau (stone temple or paepae) is quite majestic, measuring 68. 2 metres in length and 30 metres in width, made of large red stones said to be from Polulu Valley and moved by a human chain over 22.5 km long. The Heiau, considered to be the last one constructed in Hawaii, was built by King Kamehameha I in dedication to Kūkā'ilimoku (a war god). It was prophesied by the high priest Kāpoūkahi that only after building the temple would King Kamehameha be able to conquer the whole of Hawaii. The king directed that the temple be built immediately on Puukohola (Whale Hill). Less than a year later the temple was finished. King Kamehameha invited his rival Keō Kūahu’ula to the dedication, who was sacrificed on the spot. The death of his rival quickly ended all resistance and the prophesy was soon fulfilled - in 1810 King Kamehameha I was the revered sovereign of all the Hawaiian Islands.

After our tour we made our way down to the Makali’i base which is within walking distance from the Heiau. The base is pretty cool: it’s a couple of old movie sets that have been reinforced and reconstructed to suit the voyaging society. The base is right by the water and it was quite windy that day, possibly 18+ knots - really great sailing weather. While we had lunch and caught up with the Makali’i family we could see shark fins in the water - quite a sight.

We were soon back on the bus and making our way to another base of the Makali’i family. On arrival our hosts directed us to a hill right over a cliff overlooking the channel between Hawaii and Maui, where a ceremony would take place. You could almost see the currents between the islands. The Honourable Congressman Faleomavaega Eni Hunkin was present for this ceremony as it was quite an important binding ceremony and show of support. The fleet was greeted with chanting and hula dances by our Hawaiian cousins; each va’a participated in a braiding ceremony connecting tea leaves to a set of stones in the middle. The inspiration of this ceremony reflects the braided leaves as tentacles of the fe’e (octopus) reaching out to everyone. Regardless of the distances and differences each Island is connected. Afterwards, the navigators and captains were invited to take the braided tea leaves up to a hill next to the cliffs. According to oral history this hill was used for training by the navigators of old. The hill had a sense of tranquillity to it, quite relaxing. The group stayed a bit longer then what was required while the rest of the fleet and Makali’i family found time to connect.

It’s a great feeling to be finally on land again as well as being in Hawaii. It’s been one of our goals from the beginning to meet our cousins in the Northern Hemisphere. This goal has been marked, though our voyage is far from over.

Mahalo nui loa

Fealofani Bruun

Gaualofa

Nuku Hiva, Marquesas, Islands - 1st June 2011

Position: Taiohae; Nuku Hiva, Marquesas Islands

Today is Samoan Independence Day and we're celebrating it a little bit different here in Nuku Hiva. As today's the last day of provisioning and cleaning and the next couple of days are just for rest and recreation that is what we are actively working at: restocking and cleaning the va'a. Later this afternoonwe will have the closing ceremony for our time here in Nuku Hiva. The mayors of many other villages will be in attendance. With the closing ceremony only a few hours away we know that our time on land will end soon.

Yesterday was a good day. The district of Nuku Hiva gave the fleet a treat by taking us on a tour around the island, mainly to the north eastern side. The area is known for its paepae, valleys, rivers and good anchorage, just to name a few. On our way to the eastern side we stopped at an archaeological site called Kamuihei. The site was a gathering place for the people of Nuku Hiva and the whole Marquesas island group. The site is on the face of a mountain, and has stone structures in it. It’s as large as a Rugby field. There are structures made out of large stones that have been placed in a paepae format and then set up as terraces going up the mountain. The terraces are actually called paepae just like in Samoa. Aside from the paepae there are carved stone structures of animals: turtles, an animal that is in harmony with both the land and sea.

Later in the tour we were driven down to the village, Hatiheu, to where the local community there has just opened a museum. The mayor of the village, Ivonne Katupa, was there to welcome us. The museum is dedicated to restoring artefacts from the site as well as preserving their culture.

While some of Gaualofa crew were on the trip the other half stayed behind to give a few of the local kids a tour of our va'a. They had such a good time that more will be coming later today. The people here are as beautiful as their motu. W its lush forests and sheer mountains. their hospitality is never ending. We've eaten like kings here: taro, goat, pua’a, povi, moa, fai, manioca and more; it reminds us a little bit of home, lo'u Samoa.

Faafetai tele samoa mo le taupuaiga

Gaualofa

Heading for Nuku Hiva - 25th May 2011

Position: 113.9 Nautical Miles North of Takapoto and 72 Nautical Miles West of the Course Line, from Fakarava to Nuku Hiva in straight line; (estimated position only; we’re about 3-4 days away from Nuku Hiva)

Talofa lava,

Back on the moana sausau again, back into watch mode and back into simple realities of life. Not only are we graced with an additional crew member, Akenese from Samoa but also a brother, Brown, from the Va’atele Marumaru Atua, Cook Islands. The two new members, I’m pleased to state, are doing quite well. Since we’ve been out in open sea again, the weather has been good to us. Fairly good that is: small squalls, sunny skies, bit of rain now and again; sea state small wavelets, white horses, bit of swell from the East and wind state 13-16 knots from the E.

On this particular leg to the Marquesas we’re all learning how to actually use the Hawaiian Star Compass which was developed by Nainoa Thompson (and using the Hawaiian terms). Cap has placed a sticker over our GPS so we’re not able to read our heading, velocity made good, speed, wind direction nor our position. Every shift performs a speed check about 3 times during their watch; this is then noted down on the log and is then calculated on how many nautical miles we’ve done. Each evening, the watch captains plot out our estimated position with the aid of the star compass (our course steered), calculated mileage and dead reckoning. So far they’ve done a fine job, being off in less than 20 nautical miles west of the GPS position; this is basically due to the over calculation of leeway that is taken into consideration. Also note that it’s the largest body of water in the world, so 20 NM off is not so bad. But otherwise, for novices, they’re estimated position is satisfactory, just a little more fine tuning.

We’re undeniably honoured to have Tua Pittman on board Gaualofa for the first time. He was dropped off courtesy of the Evohe dinghy service just yesterday at noon, making quite an interesting picture: this statuesque bronze figure at the bow of the dinghy poised with such ease in rough rolling seas, his silver windblown hair sweeping off the nape of his golden bronze neck as he makes his approach towards Gaualofa. It was like watching a scene from an adventure film, sound effects could almost be heard in the background on his approach…actually Kalolo blew the conch in honour for his arrival. That evening, the whole deck was full of Samoans gazing up at the starry night, with Tua quietly and patiently indicating what stars to use and the like. Tua will be with us until the Marquesas, so we’ll be absorbing as much as we can while we are still in his presence.

The wind factor being due East and our course being NE we again have the task of sailing upwind. It affects a few on the va’a: the constant beat up but for others it’s just another challenge. We’re still laughing, playing the guitar, pulling pranks and figuring out ways of getting more treats out of the cooks. Everyone is healthy and smiling like loons at times.

And on this note... E fia momoli atu alofa’aga i aiga, uo ma e masani; e momoli atu fo’i le fa’afetai tele lava i le tapuaiga mamalu o le atunu’u.

Soifua,
Gaualofa.

Fakarava

Date: 20.05.11
Position: Post Office, Fakarava, Tuamotu Islands, French Polynesia.

Talofa Lava,

It's day three in port and it feels like the days are still merging. No sense or time or date, the last few days have just been taking it easy. Since we've arrived we're still going through our watches, but only from sunrise to sunset. This is to keep the routine and order going on the va'a. The people of Fakarava are endless in their generosity and beautiful smiles. The Tahitian and Samoan language sound similar enough that we're able to understand each other regardless of the language barrier. On Wednesday evening right after sunset the Faafaite te o Maohi Society held an ava ceremony. The ceremony was to celebrate the setting of the Matali'i stars which marks the start of the season of root food: taro, umala, manioca, etc. And giving thanks to the end of the season of above-ground crops: ulu and fa'i. Each va'a had two representatives at this ceremony - Koleni and Fealofani sat in for Gaualofa. Dieter Paulman was also present for the ceremony. Thursday morning and Cap informs us we're getting a treat of relaxation. We're to sail to a remote area called Orehara on the other side of the island with Hinemoana, Faafaite and Haunui to enjoy some downtime from the constant bustle of port. We are also given news by one of our crew members that he's needed at home and will leave us the following day, everyone at once hit him with WHYS?!!! The voyage has just started and a member of our aiga is leaving us. We understand and respect his decision and wish him a safe passage on all his endeavors. He will be greatly missed, and there will always be an available bunk for him when he is able to join again.

On the way to Orehara, we sailed through an underwater Tapuatea Marae. A marota (Tahitian word for gift/ offering) is left for the tufugas and gods of the past. This marae is related to the seven va'a that left French Polynesia in 207 AD; this is an estimated date according to the recorded genealogy of the families who settled in Fakarava. The Gaualofa crew chose a ma'a from the river of Tafitoala, in Upolu. This particular ma'a is significant as it's from a village that was named by voyagers of the old when they were sailing through. Koleni said a prayer acknowledging our tufuguas, praises to our fellow voyagers and expressing thanks to the Lord; afterwards Akenese released our marota into the lagoon. Each va'a also offered a marota ma’a for the marae. Afterwards we sailed to our destination and laid anchor for the night. Morning came and it was a relaxing day of swimming and much needed repairs. Siaosi and Fialelei went spear fishing and caught us lunch, while Salai, Akenese and our two local guests: Veronica and Vaia got us faisua. Lunch was up and we heaved anchor to return to the port of Fakarava to finalise the restocking and depart on Saturday.

Lunch Menu: oka pone and alogo, fried rice, fa’alefu fa’i, raw faisua in lime, garlic, chilli, coconut cream and onion.
Beverage: sweet niu.

Fa’afetai tele lava,

Fealofani.

16th May 2011

Location: Almost at Fakarava

I stood there beneath the deck hatch in thought: should I change into my foul-weather gear, or no? It had been raining earlier and we had all enjoyed running the genniker while bathing in only our shorts and skins. I was sure the deck would still be wet, but the moon now beamed down upon me; I looked up to see her bright shape, boldly filling what I could see of the dark night sky through the hatchway. No, tonight would be lava-lava and t-shirt.

I clambered up to the deck for the midnight shift to find the previous watch team in a relaxed state: one man on the foe, one on the guitar, and two more with a piece of the banana & walnut chocolate cake that was our night time snack in their hands, and bright smiles on their faces.

"Watch out for that rain cloud", one cautions, pointing to the NE beyond Gaualofa's bow. 'Drat', I thought to myself, and reached into the hatch to pull out my foul-gear after all. As I wriggled into it, tucking away my lava-lava, the drizzle set in. It didn't last long; just long enough to ensure that any topside sitting spot would require waterproofed pants to enjoy.

The moon beamed on, however, and we cruised into the early hours of the morning...
As the next watch now emerges from the dark recesses of our twin hulls, someone is again strumming the guitar, someone else is steering the foe, and I sit here enjoying this lovely piece of banana & walnut chocolate cake, watching the moon-shadows change shape, and the great Fish-hook of Maui (or scorpion's tail) move slowly across the starry patch of sky above.

It has been a long journey, and rumours have it that we may finally make landfall tomorrow. After a month at sea, what will it be like to stand on earth once more? Undoubtedly, it will be a good feeling, but also perhaps an unfamiliar one. The wide spaces, the different faces, the cultural experience; and just imagine the ability to bathe in fresh water, rather than sea!

It is exciting to think about, but the time for that is tomorrow. Right now, at quarter past 3am, it's time for bed, and dreams of loved ones at home.

Bruce

10th May 2011

The huge grey beast persisted on our tail, appearing to devour everything in its path. One other boat, following some miles behind, had already disappeared into its bowels, sending shudders down our spines; no one wanted to go down there - not again. The shifting, fluctuating wind was no comfort for the watch, who struggled to keep our faithful Gaualofa on course; every inch of muscle and willpower going into our hopeful escape from that looming monster...

After more than two weeks of constant head winds and the relentless bashing of toppling towers of water onto our deck and hull, the calm that had finally arrived only a few hours before had been such a relief that almost the whole crew could be found on deck in shorts and t-shirts, despite the not-necessarily sunny weather. Perhaps, I thought, this meteorological relapse could be enough to finally dampen the spirit of our ever-smiling crew.

We struggled on, however, as the air turned cooler around us; we were in the mouth of that thing and could feel its terrible wrath about to fall upon us. Each member of the watch hunched his back, grit his teeth, and put on his hooded wet-wear, as realisation of our fate galvanised in our minds. Also in mind were memories of warm, dry land, and thoughts like, "Please tell me once more why, oh why i am out here??...".

...One hour later: the squall, what seems to have been our Great Ocean host’s last attempt at overcoming the crew’s sterling resilience, had not been as severe as it had looked and had already passed over us, leaving a beautifully reddening sky behind a hedge of silhouetted cumulus castellanus on the horizon. The clouds were far off, but towered like a row of purple blooming trees into the evening sky. High above, the moon smiled down upon us once again; her toothy grin brightening our evening for songs, prayers, and our daily story before dinner.

The cold, the damp, the wet feet, the sticky salt, the sleepless nights; all would be forgotten, promised me one watch captain, once we had reached the tropics and made our first festive landfall. Those days of hardship would be over-written in memory by the pleasant, warm, tropical days to come... Well, i shouldn't hope so! An important part of this experience, for me, is enduring this hardship. Each day when I sit down with the crew to enjoy our next gourmet meal, graciously provided by the Almighty and one of his three cooking assistants aboard Gaualofa (which includes the captain), I remind myself that whether six of us are attempting to shelter from the rain or ocean squalls within the 1.5x2.5 metre galley space, or whether we are braving the elements on the deck as we eat, we have it a whole lot easier, warmer, safer, and more gourmet than any of our original voyaging ancestors had it - and we should be grateful.

So now, as I sit on the deck, enjoying the evening sky and the roast kumara wedges with caramelised onion and capsicum, and miso soup on the side, I am happy to have come through those weeks of rough weather. It gives me a little more perspective on where we have come from: for me that means not only the thousands of miles from my lavish Wellington lifestyle of comparative luxury, but also my journey as a member of this great voyaging race, over these countless generations of culture and development as a people. I am grateful for the good times we share on our deck in the moonlight and sun, but even more so for the hard times when we have had to band together, when we have had to knuckle down and grit our taro-hardened teeth, relying on each other and on our Gaualofa, who, with God and undoubtedly the spirits of our many watching ancestors, is protecting us as we travel onward to Fakarava, Nukuhiva, Hawai’i, and the future.

Bruce

9th May 2011

Position: 18°08.8’ S / 154°46.0’ W (so near yet still so far from land)

Today’s weather forecast is supposedly good weather, in our case: no more breaking seas, no more squalls and actually a bit of sun to dry EVERYTHING out, including ourselves. Though every time Marc mentions this supposedly good weather, our deck gets pounded by an 8 metre swell, dousing everyone and everything in its path. So the verdict is still out for the count.

Due to the safety hazard, since the bad weather we haven’t been able to throw out a line. Still no fresh fish on the Gaualofa lines since departure from NZ. But with the weather improving we’ve begun to speak in hushed tones of finally throwing it out and trying our luck. What fish we’ve been eating has actually been quite interesting: flying fish. These poor creatures throw themselves on the Gaualofa deck unknowingly (or maybe not?) at night and become the cook-up for the dawn breaking shift. I recommend deep fry with a bit of garlic; the sizes vary from 6 inches up to 10 inches and they’re very plump out here we’re pleased to report. Though it must also be reported since we’ve come closer to French Polynesian waters, we’ve received less and less of these gifts that just seem to find themselves in the frying pan.

On passing the 21°S latitude we were able to spot a few new sets of stars that we rarely see in Samoa: Leo the lion and the Big Dipper. A night or so later on our early morning shift, at 19°S latitude and NNE of the va’a, we spotted 3 planets aligned in a triangle: Venus, Jupiter and Mercury. They were all quite a bright and a beautiful sight.

Salai made topai koko samoa for breakfast two mornings ago. It went very well with the crew, who praised his culinary arts but made a point of his clumsiness - he had accidently cut himself while trying to open the koko samoa packet, quite a minor cut. Of course it lasted until lunch (minus the putas). LoL. Though I don’t know if he’ll be able to be talked into making a koko samoa meal again anytime soon.

We’ve opened our 6th 5kg bucket of Punjas Breakfast Crackers since departure, which was about 22 days ago. That’s a lot but then again we Samoans are quite satisfied with our crackers, ergo the reason why there’s always a dozen boxes/buckets of crackers at every fa’alavelave.

Since the arrival of the sourdough culture, Lole and Marc have been constantly baking bread. And of course Brynne has been steadily baking away in great concern for our sweet tooth. John has done his share by making fruit crumble last night with a side of yoghurt (yes we have a yoghurt maker onboard, it’s a standard va’a issue)!

As we’re reading this, we notice that we’ve written almost entirely about food. We’d like to remind everyone we like to talk about food on our shift!
And on this note, soifua lava.

E fia momoli atu le faafetai lava I le tapuaiga ale atunu’u ao feagai ai alo ma fanau a le atunu’u i folauga I luga o le vasa.

Gaualofa